Excuse me if you've heard this one, but this calls for one of my favorite jokes of all time. In a European's vision of Heaven, all the police are English, all the chefs are French, all the mechanics are German, all the lovers are Italian, and it's all run by the Swiss. In Hell, all the cops are German, all the chefs are English, all the mechanics are French, all the lovers are Swiss, and it's all run by the Italians.
To your point about inertia and political friction meaning safety: I live in Italy as an American expat. 4 years ago, they elected a literal fascist as PM (She was in the neo-fascist youth corps in the 90s and is the head of the far right party). I was afraid of what it meant and what she would do. Ultimately she has done... Not much.
It's not perfect, she did institute some tighter timelines on visas and residency cards. There was a small spate of racist attacks, and of course the boat situation is getting worse.
However, in 4 years Meloni has made no dramatic anti immigrant changes. Her rhetoric was all theater from what I can see. It's not good that she's a fascist, but she's a strongly constrained fascist and I'm happy to be protected by kilometer deep red tape.
Fascinating reframing of institutional friciton as protective rather than dysfunctional. The point about discretion replacing rules in high-capacity states nails something most migration analysis misses entirely. I've been thinking about how absorptive capacity gets ignored in these conversations, people fixate on ease of entry without considering whether the system can handle inflows without destabilizing. Italy's structural resistence to rapid consolidation functioning as shock absorption is probly the most underpriced political insurance available right now.
I was sincerely puzzled that twice in this article you mentioned Italy having "lasted" "thousands of years." The formation of the modern state of Italy began in 1861. Prior to that point exists a long story of embattled fragmentation and power struggles. After that, into the mid 20th century are many political and governmental shifts, and bloody ones at that.
So when you say "Italy lasted" in this context, should we assume you mean a cultural identity? I'm still not sure the description would be accurate, but I'm sincerely trying to understand what you meant.
There's useful information and framing here, nonetheless. But for those considering relocating to Italy it's important to note that there isn't one Italy. There are enormous differences north to south; cultural, linguistic, political. Healthcare infrastructure and delivery also differs—an excellent system north and central, less so in the south.
If you plan to start a business there, and employ people in Italy, due diligence will save your life (and possibly change your plans).
It's a beautiful and frustrating place. Buona fortuna.
I am referring to its cultural cohesion, not the underlying state organization or model.
There are few societies that can make that claim. Honestly, beyond maybe China, I’m struggling to think of one outside of Italy at the moment. Perhaps Mexico can make some what of a claim, but their own cultural history is fractured, and they don’t internalize it the way the Italians do in their laws and function.
The Italians had empires, then city states, then Papal States, and if we’re going to be true to history, then yes, after Westphalia, Italy forms in the state actor we know today. That is its current form, that’s not been it’s only form.
They’re surrounded by the reminders of their past that go to before the birth of Christ. It isn’t ornamental, it’s instrumental.
Thanks for clarifying. I think what you wrote also speaks to what I briefly mentioned about the divisions between the North and South that exist today. They hold onto the same cord that stretches back into the distant past, but they hold to different threads of that cord. I'm talking about the different perspectives of the powerful and the subjugated. There's a strain of fatalism (as well as resilience) that I see in the South, and I think it's born of old power structures that affect their lives even today. And which, as you elucidated in your piece, change slowly if at all. And yet, I've met many Southern Italians with an entrepreneurial and activist spirit that impresses me.
On a very practical, day to day level, regarding quality of life, unless those moving overseas plan to only associate with other English-speakers (if you can find them), plan on developing some language skills, or remain forever on the outside of the culture. Of course, this is true not only in Italy.
Thanks for your thoughtful and practical pieces. I've been spending 3-6 months per year in Italy (North and South, but mostly South) for nearly two decades. Early on, I thought I could live there permanently. Over time, I'm less sure. I'm still making up my mind. When I'm there, I tear out my hair in frustration. When I'm in the States, I long for the pace of Italy and their remarkable ability to disagree without blowing-up relationships, as you rightly pointed out.
So, to be honest, I never encountered many Italians outside my own family because we lived in Minnesota for most of my life.
When I returned to the mid-Atlantic to live in DC? Suddenly, I'm surrounded by East Coast Italians. They all ask, "So what part of the boot are you from?"
For me, it's mostly the North... Piedmont, Aosta Valley, Liguria, Lombardy... etc.
And the guy who wound up being one of my best friends, who was Italian from New York, goes, "Oh, you're from the good part of Italy."
Lol.
And people around us are like "what?" and Tony (that was his name) begins to explain to all the people in our office about the "Two Italys" concept. His family was mostly Neapolitan and Sicilian. They were from the bad part. The poor. The uneducated. The ones who had to scrape.
That said, even though we both grew up in the United States, were both third-generation U.S. citizens, etc., he really clung to that logic. I was educated and rich because I was from the north. He was scrappy and largely less wealthy because he was Sicilian.
In retrospect, kinda bonkers he thought that way.
There are indeed multiple Italys in Italy. Milan is modern. Rome is stable. Tuscany is the heart of the Renaissance. Naples is New Jersey. :D (Just kidding.) But yeah, all of those areas are vastly different.
You're not wrong about the Naples/NJ connection. Though Naples is more intense, by a lot. My Italian-born partner and I live in NJ. At our first apartment together, the next door neighbor spoke Neapolitan (my partner's first language). At our next place, the neighbor behind our house spoke a Puglian dialect from Bari. My partner would mutter "I can't get away from these people!" (He loves these people, he just doesn't love the smoking and the noisy chaos.) New Jersey is crawling with Italians. Thus, it's also "crawling" with good butchers and bakers.
I love the North of Italy for different reasons than I love the South. Brescia is one of my favorite cities in Italy, and for history nerds that whole region is a joy. I spent last winter there, happily exploring a loooong timeline.
But North and South, I have to say that pollution is a concern. In winter especially, air quality in parts of the north is abysmal, largely due to a combination of industry and geography. It's less noticeable in the summer, but it's still there.
In the South, air quality is destroyed by the burning of agricultural (and other) waste. This can't be overstated. Environmental pollution is a huge issue there. People with chronic health concerns should research carefully the region in which they hope to plant themselves. Especially people with respiratory sensitivities. These are the things they don't typically mention in tourist or relocation guides, but they can have an enormous impact on quality of life.
Having spent my formative years in Italy for a total of 12, subsequently returning many times, your comment "When Speed, Efficiency, and Clarity Become Liabilities" ring oh-so-true and, at least for me, Italy only works if and when I can give up my attachment to efficiency and "go with the flow," surrendering to whatever "is" and not necessarily insisting on what I want. Good article.
Thank You for this well-researched information. This is the first article of yours I've dived into... for my situation & concern, I am highly considering Norway & Sweden. I have cousins there, & also have many ex-pat friends who've lived & worked in Switzerland for 20 years & they love it. They will retire there permanently. Other ex-pat friends of ours live in France, Spain, Portugal, Scotland, & Netherlands. Most of them have lived in these nations over 15 years. They all are very happy & have no plans to return to the USA except to visit on occasion.
Excuse me if you've heard this one, but this calls for one of my favorite jokes of all time. In a European's vision of Heaven, all the police are English, all the chefs are French, all the mechanics are German, all the lovers are Italian, and it's all run by the Swiss. In Hell, all the cops are German, all the chefs are English, all the mechanics are French, all the lovers are Swiss, and it's all run by the Italians.
Yes. I have heard that one. :)
I haven’t heard that one in years.
To your point about inertia and political friction meaning safety: I live in Italy as an American expat. 4 years ago, they elected a literal fascist as PM (She was in the neo-fascist youth corps in the 90s and is the head of the far right party). I was afraid of what it meant and what she would do. Ultimately she has done... Not much.
It's not perfect, she did institute some tighter timelines on visas and residency cards. There was a small spate of racist attacks, and of course the boat situation is getting worse.
However, in 4 years Meloni has made no dramatic anti immigrant changes. Her rhetoric was all theater from what I can see. It's not good that she's a fascist, but she's a strongly constrained fascist and I'm happy to be protected by kilometer deep red tape.
It's interesting to read this analysis of how Italy is seen from outside.
Se passi per la zona di Venezia ti offro uno sprirtz.
Literally the most insightful and well timed article/post I have read in a long time. Thank you for doing this series!
This today in the New York Times:
https://www.nytimes.com/2026/01/27/world/europe/italy-ice-olympics.html?smid=nytcore-ios-share
Fascinating reframing of institutional friciton as protective rather than dysfunctional. The point about discretion replacing rules in high-capacity states nails something most migration analysis misses entirely. I've been thinking about how absorptive capacity gets ignored in these conversations, people fixate on ease of entry without considering whether the system can handle inflows without destabilizing. Italy's structural resistence to rapid consolidation functioning as shock absorption is probly the most underpriced political insurance available right now.
I was sincerely puzzled that twice in this article you mentioned Italy having "lasted" "thousands of years." The formation of the modern state of Italy began in 1861. Prior to that point exists a long story of embattled fragmentation and power struggles. After that, into the mid 20th century are many political and governmental shifts, and bloody ones at that.
So when you say "Italy lasted" in this context, should we assume you mean a cultural identity? I'm still not sure the description would be accurate, but I'm sincerely trying to understand what you meant.
There's useful information and framing here, nonetheless. But for those considering relocating to Italy it's important to note that there isn't one Italy. There are enormous differences north to south; cultural, linguistic, political. Healthcare infrastructure and delivery also differs—an excellent system north and central, less so in the south.
If you plan to start a business there, and employ people in Italy, due diligence will save your life (and possibly change your plans).
It's a beautiful and frustrating place. Buona fortuna.
I am referring to its cultural cohesion, not the underlying state organization or model.
There are few societies that can make that claim. Honestly, beyond maybe China, I’m struggling to think of one outside of Italy at the moment. Perhaps Mexico can make some what of a claim, but their own cultural history is fractured, and they don’t internalize it the way the Italians do in their laws and function.
The Italians had empires, then city states, then Papal States, and if we’re going to be true to history, then yes, after Westphalia, Italy forms in the state actor we know today. That is its current form, that’s not been it’s only form.
They’re surrounded by the reminders of their past that go to before the birth of Christ. It isn’t ornamental, it’s instrumental.
I think ignoring that is a mistake.
Thanks for clarifying. I think what you wrote also speaks to what I briefly mentioned about the divisions between the North and South that exist today. They hold onto the same cord that stretches back into the distant past, but they hold to different threads of that cord. I'm talking about the different perspectives of the powerful and the subjugated. There's a strain of fatalism (as well as resilience) that I see in the South, and I think it's born of old power structures that affect their lives even today. And which, as you elucidated in your piece, change slowly if at all. And yet, I've met many Southern Italians with an entrepreneurial and activist spirit that impresses me.
On a very practical, day to day level, regarding quality of life, unless those moving overseas plan to only associate with other English-speakers (if you can find them), plan on developing some language skills, or remain forever on the outside of the culture. Of course, this is true not only in Italy.
Thanks for your thoughtful and practical pieces. I've been spending 3-6 months per year in Italy (North and South, but mostly South) for nearly two decades. Early on, I thought I could live there permanently. Over time, I'm less sure. I'm still making up my mind. When I'm there, I tear out my hair in frustration. When I'm in the States, I long for the pace of Italy and their remarkable ability to disagree without blowing-up relationships, as you rightly pointed out.
LOL! Absolutely... and it's not just "In Italy."
So, to be honest, I never encountered many Italians outside my own family because we lived in Minnesota for most of my life.
When I returned to the mid-Atlantic to live in DC? Suddenly, I'm surrounded by East Coast Italians. They all ask, "So what part of the boot are you from?"
For me, it's mostly the North... Piedmont, Aosta Valley, Liguria, Lombardy... etc.
And the guy who wound up being one of my best friends, who was Italian from New York, goes, "Oh, you're from the good part of Italy."
Lol.
And people around us are like "what?" and Tony (that was his name) begins to explain to all the people in our office about the "Two Italys" concept. His family was mostly Neapolitan and Sicilian. They were from the bad part. The poor. The uneducated. The ones who had to scrape.
That said, even though we both grew up in the United States, were both third-generation U.S. citizens, etc., he really clung to that logic. I was educated and rich because I was from the north. He was scrappy and largely less wealthy because he was Sicilian.
In retrospect, kinda bonkers he thought that way.
There are indeed multiple Italys in Italy. Milan is modern. Rome is stable. Tuscany is the heart of the Renaissance. Naples is New Jersey. :D (Just kidding.) But yeah, all of those areas are vastly different.
You're not wrong about the Naples/NJ connection. Though Naples is more intense, by a lot. My Italian-born partner and I live in NJ. At our first apartment together, the next door neighbor spoke Neapolitan (my partner's first language). At our next place, the neighbor behind our house spoke a Puglian dialect from Bari. My partner would mutter "I can't get away from these people!" (He loves these people, he just doesn't love the smoking and the noisy chaos.) New Jersey is crawling with Italians. Thus, it's also "crawling" with good butchers and bakers.
I love the North of Italy for different reasons than I love the South. Brescia is one of my favorite cities in Italy, and for history nerds that whole region is a joy. I spent last winter there, happily exploring a loooong timeline.
But North and South, I have to say that pollution is a concern. In winter especially, air quality in parts of the north is abysmal, largely due to a combination of industry and geography. It's less noticeable in the summer, but it's still there.
In the South, air quality is destroyed by the burning of agricultural (and other) waste. This can't be overstated. Environmental pollution is a huge issue there. People with chronic health concerns should research carefully the region in which they hope to plant themselves. Especially people with respiratory sensitivities. These are the things they don't typically mention in tourist or relocation guides, but they can have an enormous impact on quality of life.
Having spent my formative years in Italy for a total of 12, subsequently returning many times, your comment "When Speed, Efficiency, and Clarity Become Liabilities" ring oh-so-true and, at least for me, Italy only works if and when I can give up my attachment to efficiency and "go with the flow," surrendering to whatever "is" and not necessarily insisting on what I want. Good article.
boca lupa, tanti auguri ...
Thank You for this well-researched information. This is the first article of yours I've dived into... for my situation & concern, I am highly considering Norway & Sweden. I have cousins there, & also have many ex-pat friends who've lived & worked in Switzerland for 20 years & they love it. They will retire there permanently. Other ex-pat friends of ours live in France, Spain, Portugal, Scotland, & Netherlands. Most of them have lived in these nations over 15 years. They all are very happy & have no plans to return to the USA except to visit on occasion.